Epimedium Open Weekend 28th-29th April 2018

Our open garden weekend was a great success in 2017, when people came from far and wide to enjoy the Epimediums and our garden as a whole. We had lots of nice comments on the day and subsequent emails thanking us for opening our garden. We have therefore decided to open again in 2018 and hope the weather will be as kind.

Opening times are 10am to 4pm on Saturday and Sunday.

Building the Roof

We had decided that the roof of the new pagoda would be only two tiers unlike the three of its predecessor. Paul and our neighbour, Dave independently when asked said they thought the smaller top roof should be 40% the size of the lower one, and having nothing better to work on I did a rough sketch, to these proportions. The drawing seemed about right so we progressed by making a small roof frame 40% the size of the lower frames. We then built a make shift temporary wooden scaffold which was to support the small frame above the larger lower one at an appropriate height, whilst we made and fixed joists.

In a brighter moment, it occurred to me that rather than be constantly going up and down steps while creating the joists in situ, it would be better to do it at ground level. We therefore made a temporary copy of the larger roof frame to use at a more convenient level and also in the area where the timber was stored and cut away from the pagoda pond. It was now we first discovered the extra headaches caused by the rooves being rectangular rather than square.

We clamped the small roof frame on the temporary scaffold at different heights and played with recycled ply templates to work out agreeable curves and falls to hopefully make a successful oriental looking roof.

When we were happy with diagonal, lengthwise and crossways templates they were copied onto 2” thick and 1” timbers to make the joists for the two roofs. An eight sided central pillar was made to take the top roof joists at the centre of the roof. This was drilled through vertically for the fixing of a top finial. This I had made from a large and a smaller fencing ball finials plus a piece of wood I turned myself on a forty year old Black and Dekker wood lathe attachment and drill!

Having made all the joists, the first fitted permanently were the large diagonal ones for the main roof. We left fitting the thinner right angled ones for later until the small roof was completed or access to make the small roof would have been much harder.

The top roof joists were fitted next along with their central pillar. I came up with the cladding method when I made a bird table for my sister for Christmas 2004. I suspected I could make a passable tile or wooden shingle effect by cutting slots in feather edge fencing boards and accentuating the effect by sawing notches coinciding with the slots in the thick edge of the boards. We knew that yet again considerable work would be involved but we decided that it should look good at normal viewing distances so started what I have estimated to be at least a thousand cuts at three inch spacing and notches. A considerable wastage was unavoidable but errors compounded this. We decided to paint what would be the inside of the roof with Protek white wash Woodstain and Protector before fixing to save the problems of painting above your head and getting white on the dark oak joists etc. This painting proved a bit of a problem because of deteriorating autumn weather with cooler temperatures and frequent showers. The fencing cladding was fitted reasonably well to the top roof despite each overlapping layer having to be cut at different angles due to the rectangular roof and the curve of the slope.

We had discussed finials for the corners of both roofs, Paul even suggesting dragons. However for relative ease of making, I quickly drew a simple scroll finial, which did look somewhat plain until Paul suggested he routed a groove in the centre to accentuate the scroll effect. Paul, having made a thin plywood pattern cut four more out of 1” thick plank with the band saw. Then following another plywood pattern made on the saw he stencilled a line to follow by hand with a small router.The next thing he insisted was essential were ridge tiles to cover the relatively neat joins on the diagonals. I admit that I had previously thought about it, and how it could be done perhaps using thick bamboo. However these would vary in thickness and bamboo in our experience is prone to splitting over time. In the end I remembered seeing some tree stakes in Wickes which had been somehow turned or stripped through a machine to be the same diameter throughout their length. We cut tree stakes longitudinally with an inexpensive table (flip over)saw, which I bought maybe twenty years ago, and had never used because of the sheer weight of it to move it to site. It did a great job despite being a bit frightening! We used a cheap second hand, router table with router, which with some practice we were able to produce C shaped ridge tiles. We also had to paint the top roof before doing more to the main roof due to access.

We looked on the internet at oriental, Chinese and Japanese pagodas to see what the colour of roofs should be. It appears that almost any colour including red and green were out there. I wanted it to be gold even metallic gold. In the end we bought Protek gold Wood Stain and Protector to try. It turned out to look good especially with the sun shining on it. I still hankered for over painting it with metallic gold but was overruled by the majority, Paul, Linda and others.

Having made and painted the small roof, the slog of the lower roof was completed and fitted with scaled up finials. The construction and painting of this was made more difficult as it had to be done from steps stood outside the pagoda, but we prevailed eventually.

to be continued.


Pagoda Construction Begins!

Paul and I started the new pagoda construction around the 17th May, by cutting up some heavy gauge galvanised steel fence posts left over from the previous failed badger fencing project. We used a Hitachi cordless band saw to easily and accurately cut 45° and right-angled cuts, to become the frames for the pagoda and walkway.

Our son-in-law, Daryl brought his welding equipment to ours’ and over two sessions welded and ground the steels together to make the two frames.

As soon as the frames were made and painted, work on the timbers to be fixed to the frames began.

We were able to use the four original steel anchor points from the old pagoda for fixing the new pagoda frame. Due to the close proximity of our sizeable Taxodium distichum (Swamp Cypress), we could not make the pagoda square as was the old one. We innocently went with a rectangular shape not realizing this was to make life much harder when constructing the roof.

We fixed uprights to the base frame and then a similar wooden frame at the top on which to build the roof.

The next stage was to create a cantilevered step to bridge the gap between the pagoda and the planned walkway between the stepping stones. When this was in place the flooring of 2”x2” timber was laid with a gap between each for effect and drainage.

The next task was to build the walkway.

I had come up with a successful pillar construction method Paul and I had used for the new stepping stone.This was using two cut lengths of slotted concrete fence posts temporarily wired together, concreted into a large hole in the bottom of the pond and then filled with a cement and sharp sand mortar, down the centre hole. Two more pillars were created for the walkway.

This time large galvanised coach bolt was put in the centre of the top of each pillar, sticking out a couple of inches as a fixing point. When all the concrete had gone off, I drilled four holes near the outer corners of each pillar and used a miraculous cement epoxy fixing mastic to secure lengths of 6mm stainless steel studding. I had never used this technique before and was amazed how quick it went off, and only just managed to start the second pillar before the two part mastic went off in the nozzle. I cut pieces of thin paving slabs to go on top of the pillars and drilled five holes through them to line up with the coach screws and studding. Using nuts and washers above and below the slabs I was able to adjust the slabs up and down like a surveyors’ theodolite until they were flat and level with each other and at the correct height to receive the walkway steel frame and wooden decking later. The next job was to drill further holes through the slabs and the steel frame for bolting the frame in place. When I was happy they were level, I worked a strong concrete mortar on top of the pillar and under the slab for stability. Later I cast a cement mortar layer over the coach bolt and studding to finish off the tops of the pillars neatly.

The wood work consisting of two longitudinal lengths of 2”x2” timbers and many crossways pieces of the same were made to form the deck. Paul thought we should go the extra mile, and rout out half an inch or so out of each cross member so they fitted over the longitudinal timbers, as we had done on the bridge. After some thought we decided to have a handrail on the outside only. I designed a reasonably strong and simple joint with a diagonal strut for added strength, to go between pairs of longer footway cross pieces and vertical handrail supports.

After we had a piece of 3”x2” timber for a handrail, fitted to the five vertical hand rail supports, Linda suggested that rather than cut off the excess length of wood on the right end, we should put in another upright from the bottom of the pond to create a handrail by the two stepping stones. This I did by creating a mortis hole underneath the handrail with difficulty, and inserting the lower end of the 2”x2” upright into a 4” plastic drain pipe concreted into the pond bottom and designed so the wood should be above the final water level.

After making quite a few sketches we decided on a pleasing pattern for pieces of light batten timber to fill in between the hand rail supports. When these were added there was discussion between Linda, Paul and I about what colours everything was to be painted. Friends were also asked for their opinions. In the end we went for dark oak stain for the handrail, and the fire engine red for all the hand rail supports and fencing finial balls which we added above each vertical support.

To be continued…